Ulla Johnson Resort 2025 Collection

Resort, cruise, vacation, pre-spring. As Ulla Johnson rightly pointed out, this season has many names. “It must include so many things,” she said, “but I decided not to be limited by it and instead feel liberated.” That’s not a bad motto, come to think of it, but how do you maintain a sense of openness despite so many responsibilities and in such an unstable environment? Johnson has an answer to that too. “Convenience,” she said, “was top of mind, even for the evening.”

She offered up the collection’s delicate lace dresses – a strappy style, a ruffled bodice and a long-sleeved version, both in a soft shade of yellow – as party-worthy examples. For daytime, knitted dresses (a growing category here) meet similar demands in terms of wearing comfort. Johnson has options for both minimalists in compact knit solids with scalloped details on the sleeves and hem, as well as more exuberant styles in ribbed knits with colorful stripes.

Of course it wouldn’t be an Ulla collection without the emphasis on handicrafts. The most impressive entrant in that category this season was also the subtlest: a pantsuit made from land-loomed chintz mordant, painted in a Tree of Life motif by Indian artist Bappaditya Biswas over the course of many weeks. (The same pattern has been reproduced on crepe de chine dresses and separates that are more scalable to production and also more reasonably priced.) Also worth mentioning are the oversized tunic and flared trousers in black and white fil coupé taffeta. . That look has its own kind of ease; it’s all dressy, but feels just as good as a T-shirt and jeans.